Our family itinerary in Costa Rica – San Jose, Tortuguero and La Fortuna with kids

This is the first part of our one-month itinerary in Costa Rica. We included our recommendations for family friendly accommodations in Costa Rica as well as the main facilities available in each place. I marked the activities we did with our 2 year old miss and 6 year old mister, for some inspiration in case you plan to visit Tortuguero and La Fortuna with your kids.

Rental car. We booked the car with Adobe, the largest car rental in CR. If you get a chance, book a 4×4 as you will be more relaxed if visiting places like Tenorio NP and Monteverde. We asked the company for a quote directly and also asked a quote from the bloggers at My Tan Feet that have a reduction with Adobe (https://mytanfeet.com/costa-rica-exclusive-benefits-and-discounts/). We got a better deal going though mytanfeet.com plus the car seats, a phone sim card and a cooler. Adobe dropped the car at our first accommodation but  initially forgot the seats when they brought the car but then they went to bring them and all worked out fine. Car was picked up from the last hotel. There is no rental office directly at he airport, with most large car rental companies offering a. shuttle from the terminal to their parkings.


1. San Jose – 3 nights – we arrived very late and could not drive anywhere ourselves. We booked a transfer though Morpho Vans to our hotel. We had booked 2 nights in EL Rodeo Estancia Boutique hotel, close to the airport. They have big rooms and a decent breakfast. They also have a very good steakhouse in case you arrive in San Jose earlier in the day or decide to spend 2 nights. We paid about 80 EUR per night, a very good value given the large rooms, pool and location. We had a tropical storrm alert on the second day in San Jose and could not leave to Tortuguero as initially planned so we booked another night in a different hotel – Mariott Estancia Belem a bigger estate with a very nice pool and views over the Poas Volcano,  but also quite a bit more expensive than El Rodeo. If you are after more pampering and many food options, the Estancia Belem can be a nice place to start of end your trip in Costa Rica. Here is our full experience.


2. Tortuguero National Park– 2 nights – the drive between SJ and the docks of La Pavona where the boat leaves for Tortuguero is about 4 hours (we had road works and heavy traffic, may be less but also more). Boat leaves at set times, once you book your accommodation in Tortuguero, they will send you the timetable. We stayed in Casa Marbella -a simple BnB on the river banks. Boat dropped us directly at he BnB, second stop after the main village. They offer a simple, basic breakfast and the hosts are very kind and can organise several tours. We used the guides that they recommended for a night turtle tour, a canoe Tortuguero National Park tour – our firm favourite – and a NP walking tour. You have to buy your National Park tickets online and they are valid for one day. Once you create your online profile with the National Park authority SINAC, keep in mind the password as you will probably use them again to buy tickets for other national parks (Poas, Irazu, Manuel Antonio). The accommodation can advise on the best time slot depending on the time of the year that you visit Tortuguero.

We enjoyed this tropical corner of Costa Rica even if getting there is a bit of an adventure. If visiting in Summer/green season, the night tour to see the Turtles laying their eggs is a must. Unfortunately no cameras or phones are allowed. We also saw a turtle release by the Tortuguero Conservancy and I can recommend to go around and ask when the next release is planned as it was really memorable for kids.


3. Sarapiqui – 2 nights- about 1 h drive from La Pavona  docks. We stopped here for the whitewater rafting, that me and my husband did in separate days as only kids above 12 can attend. But it was absolutely great if you like water based activities. We stayed in La Quinta Sarapiqui Lodge, a lovely rainforest lodge with a pool and eco friendly culture. La Quinta Sarapiqui Lodge, in the vicinity of the Sarapiquí River, the Braulio Carrillo National Park and the world wide known La Selva Biological Station, is full of unique flora and fauna. They also. offer a good breakfast choice and options for lunch and dinner. Sarapiqui is well known for being a bit more quiet in terms of tourism so we took the opportunity to do a guided walk in La Selva Biological Reserve, the most peaceful rain forest we visited in Costa Rica. The guide was great and it was the first opportunity to spot and photograph some unique wildlife. Both the rafting and La Selva Biological reserve activities were organised with the help of the lodge. This area of Costa Rica is the top place in the country to see some of the rarest birds in the world so you should stick around for longer if this is your passion..


4.  La Fortuna and Arenal National Park – 4 nights – about 1h30 drive from Sarapiqui – La Fortuna is a large resort town with many facilities and hotels. It may feel a bit overwhelming as there are a lot of tourists stopping here but I would still not skip it. The shape of the Arenal Volcano on a clear day is a sight you will remember long after leaving the country and the many activities on offer have something for everyone. We spent 4 nights at Arenal Springs Resort and Spa in La Fortuna that had great views of the volcano, its own hot springs and a big breakfast buffet. We found the hotel a bit loud around meal times. We heard other families happy with El Silencio del Campo, in the same region.


Family Activities in La Fortuna: you can spend two weeks here and still have a new activity to try each day. We did: (i) Hike in the Arenal NP lava fields (about 3h30), (ii) visit of the La Fortuna waterfall combined with Mistico Hanging Bridges in a full day tour (you can skip the hanging bridges here if you do the Selvatura Park in Monteverde as they also have hanging bridges ), (iii) Sloth Park – you go with a guide to observe Sloths in the wild  (iv) an evening with dinner at Eco-Termales Hot Springs complex and (v) Don Olivo Chocolate Tour- that is actually a farm tour. We booked most activities directly on the website of the different operators about 2 days in advance. The combined tour Mistico and Waterfall we booked with Canoa Aventura in La Fortuna.

In the same region, there is an animal rescue centre Projecto Asis that is very popular to visit – we waited too long and we did not find tickets for our days. You can also do canyoning (they take children as of 5 yo), ATVs, horseback riding, rafting, water tubing and much more.

Drop us a comment over on YouTube if you have any questions about our trip or recommendations from your visit to Costa Rica. If you consider a visit to Costa rica with kids, do not forget to Subscibe and 👍 as we have more videos and inspiration coming.

Safe travels ❤️,

CGK




On month in Costa Rica with kids – packing check list for a family road trip

Our family of four just returned from a one month road trip through Costa Rica and wanted to share some fresh impressions. This post is about what to bring with you for your Costa Rica holiday. We will do a separate one with our itinerary and what activities and restaurants we enjoyed as a family in Costa Rica.

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Ultimate 4-week road-trip itinerary in New Zealand with the family

This post was very long in the making. Buried for months under a pile of successive lockdowns, Corona measures and impossible travel restrictions that shifted all my attention to day-to-day life. This was our last overseas trip before Corona became more than a beer brand.

But with measures easing and Europe getting back to some sort of normal, it is my way of showing optimism for 2022 travel. Buckle up for the ultimate, day by day, 4-week itinerary in New Zealand’s North and South Islands with lots of tips on accommodation and great restaurants and activities for kids all ages.

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Top things to visit with kids in Gran Canaria – an outdoor paradise

Gran Canaria is also called the ‘mini-continent’ for the huge variety of landscapes that you can encounter in a very small surface. From Sand dunes to high peaks and great beaches, all is easily accessible by rental car. If you add in the beautiful fishing villages of Puerto Mogan and Puerto de las Nieves, the picture will be complete.

As the wether is a constant 20 C all year round, we decided to visit in January and had a great week in Gran Canaria with the kids. We also a few great local restaurants that we feature in our video. I hope you will consider visiting and take some inspiration from our trip.

Safe travels! CGK

A 3-week family road trip in Scandinavia – itinerary covering Denmark, Sweden and Norway

We did this road trip between early to end July 2019. That is high season in Scandinavia as most children return to School in August. I really dread travelling in high season but we did not have a choice this time. We wanted to take one longer holiday with our son before welcoming his sister and I was beyond 28 weeks pregnant when we set out from Berlin. There was no way I could have waited for mid-August!

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Snapshots of Chile’s lake district – 3 days discovering volcanoes, ancestral cultures and craft beers

About half way from Santiago to the South of Chile lies the Lake District. This area is connected with Argentina’s Bariloche District through a system of lakes that may be navigated in order to cross the border from one country to the other. Many travellers choose to do just that, usually with the help of a local tourism agency that can book all ferry tickets and bus land transfers in advance.

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The impossible warm waters of Zakynthos and the best family beaches

The beach is never too far on Zakynthos. Wherever you are on the island, you will have a great choice of beaches, some only a short drive away. We have toured a good number of them in search for the perfect family beach. For us, that is clean sand (with few or no pebbles) and water, smooth self for a few meters and no motor sports or loud bars to spoil the atmosphere.

Here is a short review of of the beaches in Vasilikos and its surroundings, in the order of preference:

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On Cesar Manrique’s footsteps in Lanzarote – original play with the landscape

If you like modern architecture and constructions that blend perfectly in their environment, you should consider visiting some of Cesar Manrique’s creations in Lanzarote. His influence on Lanzarote’s landscapes is still present today. In particular, by limiting the hight of buildings to that of the tallest palm tree and the billboard free roads.

This full day itinerary focuses on the North of Lanzarote. The first part of the day will keep the little ones on their toes. First with an open air exhibition of cactus of all shapes and sizes. Then, a visit of Haria village to walk on palm fringed old streets and run around in the pedestrian area. In the afternoon, the grown ups will take a peek in the life of the great architect Cesar Manrique in his house frozen in time and enjoy the beatiful pools and views in Jameos del Agua. Finally, the mirador will offer a unique view on Isla Graciosa, the island North of Lanzarote.

We did the itinerary from South to North.

1. Star at the Cactus Garden -Jardin de Cactus. This was actually one of the last works of Manrique.  Jardín de Cactus has around 4,500 specimens of 450 different species, of 13 different families of cactus from the five continents. The green shade of the plants stands out against the blue sky and the dark volcano rock creating a striking explosion of colour that impresses most visitors. A small stream flows in the middle of the garden. Children can admire the huge red fish swimming in the small stream and will have fun looking at all the different cactus shapes. Access by stroller is quite ok for the ground level but you will not be able to climb on the terraces or visit the small windmill. Better have a carrier if the children are not yet walking. Entrance: 6 Euro per adult and children under 7 years are free.

2. Haria city walk and the house of Cesar Manrique. With the children still impressed by the original cactus garden but not yet hungry, hop off the car for a quick visit of Manrique’s house in Haria. This is the house where he spent the last part of his life and is a rather compact structure, accessible by stroller, except myaybe the outside studio area. If you plan to visit also the Manrique foundation in Tachiche, ask for a combo ticket (about 15 Euro). Once the kids start to signal they might soon get feed- up with this museum-house, step out on the streets of green Haria. There is a nice pedestrian area in front of the Haria cathedral where they can run around. You can also stop here for lunch or continue to Arrieta.

3. Stop for lunch in Arrieta. This small village is one of the best places to eat fish on the island. We parked the car and went in El Amanecer to put our name on the list at the bar for lunch. If travelling in high season, it is likely that some waiting time will be involved before a table becomes available. We were told of about 30 min so we used the time to check out the small, sandy and family friendly beach in Arrieta. If your wait is longer, you can take the opportunity for some beach games with the kids or a quick dip in the ocean.  If you are not willing to wait too long, another good recommendation in Arietta where we ate on our last day is a no frills place, just after the village beach, called Casa de la Playa. Great catch of the day grilled fish and sea food. There were many locals when we went whcoh is always a good sign. Both restaurants recommended have high chairs.

4. Continue north to Jameos del Agua, another of Manrique’s original designs. He used the debris of a volcanic tube with lava flowing from Volcán de la Corona, on the north of the island and transformed it to a series of passage ways and pools. The entire place inspires peacefulness and harmony in the way nature and human creation came together. Birds echoe their songs in the lava caves. Small crabs shine like coins at the bottom of the internal lagoon, connected to the ocean. The place even has  an original Auditorium, unique in the world due to its geological and acoustic features. On the practical side, do bring a carrier if the kids are not yet walking as there are several flights of stairs going up and down the cave. Entrance: 10 Euro for adults and children under 7 can go free.

5. Follow the road to Mirador del Rio, on the tip of the island. Carved into the summit of a 474-metre-high cliff on Lanzarote’s northern tip, the Mirador is almost invisible from the outside. Once you step inside, you find a maze-like sequence of tunnels, with huge windows overlooking the strait between Lanzarote and La Graciosa Island. Entrance fee: 5 Euro per adult.

If you like Cesar Manrique’s works, set aside another half day for the Fondacion Cesar Manrique in Tachiche and Museo Lagomar in Nazaret. They are both great sites although accessibility wise not too easy if you have reduced mobility. There are quite a number of steps and narrow passages. A carrier is recommended.

We combined the Fondacion and the lavish Lagomar house with half a day at the beach as the LO was getting a bit annoyed at the grown ups taking him from house to house and up and down an innumerable number of steps. I will include a short list of our favorite Lanzarote beaches in a separate post.

Happy travels!

Timanfaya National Park in Lanzarote – all you need to know for a visit with the kids

After a failed attempt to visit the National Park on our very first day on the island, we came back prepared. And we are glad we did! The views were great, showcasing the power of nature and changing through a variety of colours from yellows to deep black. The photos barely do it justice. This national park is truly unique in the world.

Most important is to come early and preferably in the beginning of the week. Avoid Sundays, particularly during peak season (Catholic Easter Week and July to August). The entrance to the park opens around 9 AM. You buy your ticket (children under 6 enter free) and continue driving for another 5 min till you reach a marked parking. We arrived shortly before 10 AM and everything worked smoothly. No queuing.

You will leave your car and board a special bus that takes you on a panoramic drive through the park. Buses leave when filled, there is no set timetable. Depending on the arrivals, you might have to wait 10 min or so before the bus is ready to leave.  Do get a seat at the window to enjoy the views and keep the little ones entertained. It is not possible to leave the bus during the drive that will last about 40-50 min. You can use the toilets at the restaurant before boarding the bus.

Take a warm pullover or jacket, especially if visiting first thing in the morning. The difference in temperature can be huge between the first hours of the morning and mid-day. Also, a small bottle of water might come in handy if you do not want to buy one at the restaurant.

After the bus tour ends, do not leave immediately. Just in front of the bus parking there is a semi-circular viewing area where you can take wonderful pictures of the lava fields and crater. Walk till the end of the viewing platform and you will see a grill that works with the underground heat.

In the middle of the viewing platform, park staff demonstrate every 15-20 min the power of the heat coming from underground. They put water in one of the heat evacuation pipes. The water comes back to the surface as steam, in an a motion that looks a bit like a geyser. Small kinds were greatly entertained by this phenomenon!

Finally, have a coffee (and get warmed up) in the circular lobby of the Restaurant designed by Cesar Manrique. You do not need a reservation to visit this part of the restaurant. It is opened in the morning, as early as the first scheduled bus departure. It is recommended to book if you would like to have lunch on the premises.

As a side trip from in the National Park you can take a camel ride. The Echadero de los Camellos in Parque Nacional de Timanfaya is easy to find by car, it’s on the main road from Yaiza LZ-67 as you approach the visitor attraction. Simply turn into the large car park when you arrive where you can see the camels lined up and waiting patiently for their next passengers. There’s no need to book, you can simply turn up at any time between 09:00 and 16:00 for a camel ride. It costs €12 per camel. The camel ride takes around 20 minutes. We skipped it but many (older) kids seemed thrilled after the experience.

The last bus departure in Spring is at 17h. The park closes at 17h45. We left the park at 11.30h and car queues were forming both before the park entrance and to get into the parking.

Enjoy your visit and let me know if you have more tips.

Happy travels!

Solo travel in Western Balkans – 24h in and around Tirana, Albania

I travelled to Tirana in December 2017 to participate in a work-related conference. The presentations finished already Friday mid -day and I was left with about 24 h to explore a bit of the city and surroundings before my flight back on Saturday PM.

Tirana itself is nothing too spectacular and similar in look with other former communist capitals from the European Eastern block. The architecture is mainly greyish appartment buildings with falling facades. The only notable exception are a few streets surrounding  Skanderbeg Square, now turned a pedestrian zone. In December, a small Christmas market and several carrousels were occupying the square.

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