Travel Argentina and Brazil – our 3 week itinerary and value accommodation

We spend New Year in 2015/2016 at Iguassu Falls, one of the most impressive waterfalls in the World. This was part of a 3 week itinerary in Latin America taking us from charming Buenos Aires to busy Sao Paolo. If you are looking for a Latin American highlights tour, this fast-paced itinerary definitely ticks many of the must sees some off-the beaten path locations in a relatively short period of time.

This was the first time when we used a combination of shared transfers and internal flights to move from one place to another, with the help of a local travel agent. If you need to cover a lot of ground in a short period of time, this is an option that you could consider. The local bus system is affordable for long trips but you need to have the flexibility of missing a few days from your next destination if seats are full on your desired travel day.

Latin America highlights itinerary

Day 1 – Landing in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is probably the most cosmopolitan metropolis in South America. Certainly it looks more European than any other in the Americas: wide boulevards, monumental architecture, art deco cafeterias and designer label shops. This seductive city oozes old world atmosphere and nostalgia, with its colonial buildings, antique markets, shady squares and tango halls. That’s not to say Buenos Aires is just stuck in its past – it’s equally vital and contemporary with a vibrant arts scene, top drawer restaurants, ultra-chic boutique hotels and a pulsating nightlife.

We stayed at Kenton Palace Hotel which we recommend for a value option. When we land after a long flight, we try to get to a comfortable place where we can both rest and explore with ease. One of the hotel’s greatest assets is its location: slap bang in the centre of town, a walk away from the main sights, restaurants and bars: the Plaza de Mayo, the San Telmo ‘Bohemian’ and arty district, the flash new port development at Puerto Madero, the main city avenue and the boutiques and eateries of Recoleta are a stroll away. There’s an excellent buffet breakfast and a small range of other meals.

Day 2 Buenos Aires – city tour: There is so much to explore here. We like to start with an overview of the main highlights before we set out on our own to explore more in depth. We booked a half day city tour with our hotel. It started from Avenida 9 de Julio, one of the widest boulevards in the world and an impressive place to start exploring Buenos Aires. We passed by the Obelisk monument as well as the recently restored Colón theatre. Then the Plaza de Mayo, enclosed on three sides by the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Town Hall and the Casa Rosada, the presidential palace from whose balcony Juan and Eva Peron addressed impassioned throngs of Argentines. We continued along the Avenida de Mayo towards the Plaza del Congreso, where a monument commemorates the abolition of slavery and the declaration of independence. The tour continued to the colourful bohemian barrio of La Boca, which was settled and built by Italian immigrants and has streets lined with brightly painted corrugated iron houses. Finaly, we reached the north of the city and our favourite part. Here is Palermo, an elegant neighbourhood of wide avenues lined with colonial mansions. The city zoo, the botanical gardens and racetrack are all here too. Finally, we visited the artistic district of Recoleta, stopping at the cemetery where Evita Peron has been buried. We spend the afternoon exploring Puerto Madero independently.

Day 3 Buenos Aires. We spent the morning hours n the local street market. It took place a couple times per week and it occupied almost the entire length of the street where our hotel was located. We returned to Palermo at lunch time and the afternoon and visited the Japanese garden and explored more of the area.

Day 4 – We had a internal flight to Puerto Iguazú. Puerto Iguazú is a small town (and airport) on the Argentine side of the Iguazú Falls. Almost all the falls lie on the Argentine side, where there is a series of boardwalks, although the most impressive panoramas can be seen from the Brazilian viewpoints.

We stayed on the Argentinian side, at Raices Esturion Iguazu (2 nights). It was a good property but not our initial choice. However the hotel inside the National Park was fully booked. This large ranch-style property is set within very nice garden grounds, ten minutes from town, 30 km from the Iguazu Falls and just 100m from the three frontiers of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. That was very fun with the phone automatic location adjustment, that keep jumping between Argentina and Brazil 😊. There is also a good-sized open-air swimming pool, tennis courts, small gym and sauna.

Day 5 – we went for a full-day private tour of the Argentina side of the Iguazú Falls organised with a local guide found on Trip advisor. There’s a brief stop at the National Park Visitor Centre, where there is a display illustrating the biodiversity of the tropical rainforest. From here, a little natural-gas-powered train transfers you to Cataratas station where the Upper Walk begins. This sequence of causeways and passerelles links dozens of tiny, basalt islands at the top of the rock face. These walkways cross the myriad streams of the Río Iguassu as they cascade over the lip of the precipice. A succession of lookout points allows your gaze to follow the water, as it plunges onto the rocks below. You can then continue to the Lower Walk, which involves stairs, and gives you a totally different view of these Falls. Climb back up to the train and continue, about 20 mins, to Devil’s Throat Station. From here, a kilometre-long walkway leads you across the river to the thunderous Garganta del Diablo, which offers a spectacular vantage point peering into the thundering vortex below. The tour lasts around 6 hours and there’s about 3km of walking. Our guide brought us two light raincoats. The spray from the falls is guaranteed to soak you completely.

We spent the evening in Puerto Iguassu. It was 31 December and we wanted to relax a bit and have a nice dinner to celebrate the New Year. The village is built all around the tourism of the waterfalls but you can find little local gems. We had some great food at Aqua restaurant and can recommend it for a more special dinner. All restaurants in the city will close well before midnight.

Day 6– we crossed into Brazil and visited the Brazilian side of the Iguazú Falls.

The drive to Foz de Iguacu takes about 40 minutes. The Brazilian side of the falls offers a totally different viewpoint to Argentina, providing an overall vista of their full majesty. A 11⁄2 km paved walkway leads along a cliff to the rim of a waterfall that looks into the spectacular Garganta del Diablo. There is an elevator which takes visitors to the top, a small shop and snack bar. After the tour, we took a transfer to the airport in Foz do Iguaçú (another 40 mins) and had a late flight to Salvador do Bahia in North Brazil. Took a taxi to our hotel.

Day 7 – Salvador do Bahia – we explored independently and fell in love with this less touristy part of Brazil. Salvador da Bahía is one of Brazil’s most historical and cultural cities with a strong African influence. The most vibrant and interesting district is Pelourinho in the upper part of the city, Cidade Alta, which for pedestrians is linked to the lower city, or Cidade Baixa, by art deco funicular elevators. We went to the Lower City (Cidade Baixa) and the Itapagipe Peninsula, visiting the Igreja de Bomfim (closed on Mondays). This church is a magnet for pilgrims, and the tradition is that children gift you a ‘good-luck’ cotton wristband and in return, you respond with a ‘gift’ of money. On the shoreline, fishermen cast their nets from dugout canoes, and schooners anchor offshore. There is a panoramic view of the city from Montserrat and ended at the Mercado Modelo – formerly a slave market, but nowadays a handicraft centre.

We stayed at Hotel Villa Bahia, easily our favourite accommodation on this trip. This hotel – a refurbishment of two adjoining colonial era residences – is well located in the heart of the evocative central historical district, Pelourinho. The communal top floor sun terrace has two Jacuzzis for guest use, as well as a sauna and steam room. There is also a restaurant serving Bahian cuisine, and a small ground floor swimming pool in a leafy patio. Furniture is predominantly antique, in keeping with the owner’s attempts to evoke the colonial era. It is a lovely place to spend a couple of nights and they serve some great food too.

Day 8 – We took.a transfer from Salvador do Bahia to Praia do Forte. Easily accessible from Salvador (85km away), Praia do Forte has some of the most beautiful palm-fringed beaches in the north east Brazil and is a favourite of local families. It has a laid-back feel, although it can get busy at weekends and holidays. The coastline is now part of a national preservation programme which helps protect sea turtles which lay eggs along the beach.

Day 9Praia do Forte – we spent some time at the beach and exploring the local turtle conservation centre – Projecto Tamar.We stayed at Pousada Ogum Marinho, a locally- owned simple hotel that perfectly fit the laid back feel of the place. It was really easy to walk around to the centre of this resort town and the beach .

On Day 10 – We took a private transfer from Praia do Forte to Salvador airport and flew to Rio de Janeiro. Rio needs no introduction. Seven million people live, work and play in this tropical city at the ocean’s edge. The beaches are legendary, and the views over the city from Sugarloaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer statue are world-renowned. But other highlights abound – the serene botanical gardens, the artists’ colonial quarter of Santa Teresa, downtown museums and art galleries, and the stupendous Niteroi Bridge over Guanabara Bay.

We arrived at our hotel in the afternoon. We stayed at Windsor Copa Hotel, a good value for money in an expensive city like Rio. It is located in the heart of Copacabana, one block from Copacabana’s waterfront. There’s a good choice of other restaurants and entertainment within a short stroll of the hotel. It is a very good base to explore the city although it lacks the impressive beach views of the waterfront hotels.

Day 11 and day 12 we explored Rio’s attractions like Sugarloaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer. We also took a walk along the waterfront till from Copacabana to Ipanema beach and enjoyed the beach culture of Rio. Spending half a day lazing on Copacabana beach with the street vendors bringing snacks and drinks, is an essential Rio experience. We had dinner one one of the nights at Alfaia Restaurant on Rua Inhanga 30 and can warmly recommend them.

Day 13 – we had a transfer to Angra Dos Reis from where the boats leave to Ilha Grande. It is a scenic 2 1⁄2-hour drive along the coast. and another 1h 30 catamaran to the lush, tropical island of Ilha Grande. Although it can take the best part of the day to reach Ilha Grande we do feel that it’s worth the effort for a taste of an unspoilt paradise!

lha Grande is an island with almost no roads, mountainous (over 1,000m high) jungle, superb beaches. The island’s development has been limited, and it retains much of its native charm. Crystal clear green waters lap at palm-fringed beaches on the north side, whilst sweeping white sand beaches and rougher seas characterise the south. The main, laid-back village of Abraão offers modest tourist facilities. It is the perfect place to feel away from it all. We stayed at Pousada do Canto, a small guesthouse located on the beach, 10 min or so from the village.

Day 14-15 Relaxing in Paradise. We spent 3 nights on the island. There are a few boat tours you can take and snorkelling trips can be booked in the small village. But the main activity here is relaxing on the beach at one of the many beach bars and snorkelling directly from the beach.

Day 16 – transfer to Parati. First by ferry to the mainland and then by shared transfer, it took us a bit more than 3 h to reach the village of Parati where we spent 3 nights.

Paratí is a picturesque and colourful fishing port located at the foot of the rugged, verdant hills of the costa verde. Its setting is delightful, between lush mata atlântica cloud forest and the warm waters of Ilha Grande Bay. The pedestrian-only historic core is composed of typical whitewashed Portuguese colonial architecture lining flagstone-cobbled lanes and squares. The centre is protected by UNESCO heritage status. Alongside chic boutiques are a number of excellent restaurants, many of which serve delicious fresh seafood in generous proportions. The bay is peppered with rocky tropical islands draped in tropical vegetation and fringed with tiny beaches, which can be visited by schooner.

Our second favourite accommodation from this trip was in Parati, the Pousada da Marquesa. Located in the town’s cobbled historical centre, this 18th century former mansion is full of Old World character, with antiques, old paintings and colonial-style furnishings. There is also a charming courtyard enclosing a garden, bar, breakfast lounge and swimming pool. A beautiful place to retreat after sightseeing through Parati.

Day 17-18 We explored Parati and relaxed before our return to Europe. I found a great massage place and spa -Shambala iSpa. I really recommend trying them out. It is probably the best massage I had in Latin America. We recommend eating at Banana da Terra, our best meal in Paraty.

Day 19 – we got a transfer from Parati to Sao Paolo, that takes about 3h30. We arrived in the afternoon at our hotel closer to the airport. We flew back to Europe the next day in the morning. If your itinerary allows for more flexibility, a couple of nights in Sao Paolo would be the perfect ending to a whirlwind tour of Brazil.

As mentioned, for this tour we used an agent due to the many places we wanted to cover in a short period of time. The name of the company is Journey Latin America and they are based in the UK. We had a great experience with them and if you are looking for operator to help out with the organisation, they come highly recommended.

This was our first time in Latin America and we loved the vibes of its cities, the lovely nature and wonderful beaches. We loved it so much, we returned to explore more in 2018. You can read about it here.

Safe travels! CGK

What to visit and where to eat in Seychelles – Praslin, Mahe and La Digue

It’s been 6 months since our Seychelles trip and we still haven’t gotten over the nice beaches, relaxed atmosphere and beautiful nature. So here a quick snapshot of all the great places to visit on each of the three main islands. Check out the blog post below more details and some woderful restaurants to eat local food.

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Pirate stories and wine tastings in Lanzarote’s heartland

A full day itinerary concentrating in and around Teguise, in the heart of Lanzarote. You should consider doing this itinerary on any day of the week except Sunday. On Sundays there is a big and rather touristic market taking place in Teguise old town that detracts from the peacefulness and serenity of the place.

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Live from Lanzarote – an island packed with outdoor adventures for the whole family

We landed in Lanzarote a few days ago and it has been a bit of a mixed experience in the beginning. We were looking for an ‘ outdoor ‘ destination where we can spend time in nature and shake off the European Winter blues. Instead, we were greeted by a flurry of tourist buses to all-inclusive resorts and a purpose-built ‘village ‘ where every other restaurant offers an all-day English breakfast.

When we reached our accomodation in Puerto del Carmen, we were determined to find something a bit more authentic than a street dotted with Irish pubs.  We designed the itinerary of the next days as we went and asked recommendations from the locals. The main objective was to spend time outdoors and enjoy the glorious weather. With an island as compact as Lanzarote, nothing is really too far away.

Our LO was thrilled with all he saw and experienced that day. For the adults, the walk around Montagna Colorada with its lunar landscapes plus the fresh fish restaurant were probably the highlights.

Here is the full day South island discovery itinerary:

Head towards the Timanfaya national park visitor’s center at Mancha Blanca. It is completely free and you can walk around to check out explanations about volcanic activity and the geologic formation of the Canary Islands. Preschool kids seem to find the explanations about the local flora and fauna more interesting.

Once per hour there is a projection of two short movies, one about volcanoes and volcanic activity and a second about the flora and fauna. They are in Spanish but you can use your headphones to listen to an English/french/German interpretation. Bring a pair of headphones if the children would like to watch this short documentary in English. Otherwise, they do sell them at the reception of the visitor center. Each movie is about 20 min long.

There are some good photo opportunities when you leave the building and follow the wooden path outside, above the lava fields. The landscape is like nothing you have seen before: rugged lava towers till the horizon.

Before leaving the Visitor center, stop at the info point just before the entrance and ask how is the traffic on the local road leading to the Bus volcano route. If the road is not too congested, head to the bus stop and continue with this tour around the crater. When we visited, the cars were waiting in line for 2 h to reach the departure point so we decided to leave this journey for another day and head for a walk on the lava fields in the Parque Los Volcanos.

If you are accompanied by kids or plan to be pushing a stroller, there are two walks that are recommended for their good accesibility. They are not well signposted but you will find the departure points on local road LZ-56. One is a circular walk around a red colored hill that in recognised locally as Montana Colorada. The other is a walk to a crater rim and back that should last about one hour.

We did the Montana Colorada with the baby mostly in the stroller and it was a bumpy but fun experience. The car park is a few meters after the Km 3 mark on road LZ-56, on the left side of the road in direction Geria. The road is mostly little volcanic rock and sand so make sure your stroller has large wheels. Our McLaren Quest struggled uphill and we took our LO on the shoulders for a few rough patches. It took us about one hour to do the tour, with frequent photo and ‘picking up stones and throwing them back’ opportunities. Bring water, a hat and a long-sleeve. In open spaces, the wind can be quite cold.

The walk completed, we were ready for some fresh fish. A small village on the Southern outskirts of the Timanfaya national park, El Golfo, was recommended by our accommodation. We headed there, at La Rafa del Mar. All waiters were very nice, even if a bit rushed as there were ever more customers waiting for tables. They had high chairs and even a changing mat in the bathroom. The grilled octopus was excellent!

El Golfo has some great views of the ocean waves crushing on the shores. If you continue walking the main street, bordered by all the restaurants, you will reach a modern and colorful playground. On the left of the playground, begins a coastal walk of a few kilometers. The terrain is rough and serious shoes and trekking gear are necessary.

Just before entering El Golfo, a large parking on the left side of the road leads to a high view point of the whole coast. From the same point, one can walk 3 minutes to the Green Lake (Lagoa Verde). The view of the striated rock formations on the background is impressive. El Golfo is actually a half-submerged cone of a volcano, which over time has been eroded by the sea, leaving behind only the striated wall of the crater displaying a myriad of red and russet colors.

Finally, the last stop before returning to our accommodation, was the Salinas del Janubio. Here, water is pumped from the ocean and, once evaporated, salt is extracted the old fashioned way for the local economy.

Next, we planed a full-day itinerary following the footsteps of Cesar Manrique, the architect behind many of the island’s attractions and landscaped villages. Stay tuned.

Happy travels!

Discovering the European South – Beaches and mountains of Cyprus

We returned to Cyprus last year, in November. For residents of the European North, September is the month when we start to become itchy for another break in the Sun. This is especially when summer means two weeks with temperatures above 20 in June and two weeks again in August, if we are lucky. September is also when prices start to get back to more reasonable levels as most of schools holidays draw to a close. It was out second time visiting the Troodos Mountains and enjoying great Cypriot hospitality and food.

Check out the video we have posted on YouTube and you will book a trip immediately.

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Tenerife- in search of the ‘real’ island in our first family vacation

I travelled well into my pregnancy, with the last trip to Puglia when I was about 7 months along. We also had a gorgeous ‘babymoon’ to Sri Lanka and Maldive that I shared on the blog. Still, after giving birth, I was again eager to discover someplace new and I started looking for a destination that we could share as a family in early April 2016. Friends were travelling at the same time to Tenerife so we decided to tag along.

It was not a package holiday but we did take it easy as regards accomodation and went for half board. We did not know how the baby will adapt (4 months at the time of travel) and preferred to make sure there will be some easily reachable food in case he decides to act up just as dinner draws close. We also rented a car (with a car seat) to give us some flexibility to explore the island.

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Blast from the past – how we spent 5 days in Malta in 2012

Most of my friends travel in August. I am doing everything possible to avoid travelling in August which is the European peak season and corresponds to traffic jams spanning from Spain to Greece (ok, a bit of an exaggeration but you get the picture) and airports testing their passenger capacity limits. My shoulder season preference is however often broken by family and friends visits that, on most occasions, require both a car and plane ride. So, week-end trips aside, I try to stand by the “No travel in August!” rule.

To fill the current ‘non-travelling’ time, I am compensating with some travel writing and travel planning. As I was recently sorting photos, I came across a few nice ones from Malta, so here is a short post of our tour there from a couple of years ago.

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Island discovery – Mauritius outside the 5 star resorts

It is Summer in Europe, therefore the time when everybody travels. I am between travels myself but using the time to catch up on about 6 months worth of trips that I was not able to document due to a busy work schedule. So, Mauritius. First, if you tell your friends that you plan a Mauritius holiday, you will probably get a few ‘wish I were you’ looks. Mauritius is a synonym to paradisiac beaches and infinity pools in 5 -star resorts.

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Komodo Dragons – Island of Flores, Indonesia

There are three things you will find about Indonesia on all travel blogs: 1) relax and visit temples in Bali; 2) dive and go to the beach in the Gillis and 3) visit the Komodo Dragon. You probably wonder why all the fuss about a lizard. Subject of countless documentaries and TV nature programs, the main thing about this lizard is that, like many other rare animals, it is only to be found on two little islands in the vast archipelago that is Indonesia: Komodo and Rinca. This usually involves either a long boat trip from Bali or a flight with a local carrier. These lizards are fierce creatures, the size of a large crocodile but more agile and ready to attack pretty much anything on two or four feet. Komodo National Park is a UNESCO site and is the only place to see the world’s largest lizard in the wild.

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A healthy portion of nature from Azores – Sao Miguel Island

I’ll start with a few pics from past trips to get the hang of this blogging thing.

Below, the twin lakes of Sao Miguel, Azores. Even with a basic point and shoot camera, the beauty of the place was hard to miss.

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