Last week, I took a short trip to the Mediterranean South. The main reason for the trip was work related but I did manage to squeeze a few hours for exploration. It is a fascinating place, with thousand year history that you will encounter at every step.

 

The first question I got was: Is it safe?

If you read the Government Travel Advisory, it leaves one pretty weary. After being on the streets of Tunis myself, either alone or with one other person, my answer would be that yes, it is back to pre-tourism crisis atmosphere. I did not feel unsafe and witnessed plenty of security in the city centre. And the tourists are slowly coming back.

Also, pushy shop owners or guides trying to get you to buy their services (a feature common to the Medinas of Morocco and Tunisia) seemed less prevalent. This might also be due to the Ramadan period, when a number of shops are closed in the afternoon. For the same reason, taxis are difficult to find between 16h and 20h, as everybody joins their family waiting for the moment to break the fast ( referred to as ‘la rupture du jeune’ in French). French is prevalent as a means of communication outside the hotel. You should prepare a few phrases in case of need.

The Ramadan is a wonderful period to visit to experience a unique moment of Arab culture and enjoy the Iftar (an extensive meal shared after Sunset). At the same time, it comes with some limitations so it’s better to prepare a bit in advance:

• In Summer, the locals will fast from around 5 AM to a bit after 7 PM. In Tunis, this includes no drinking of water. The hotels are of course serving lavish breakfast buffets – often including warm dishes- as well as lunch but that is not the case in the city, where most restaurants are closed. Bring a sandwich and a water bottle if you plan to spend the day visiting the ruins. The Tunisians are very nice and, if you hire a driver, he will not be offended by you eating or drinking. Also, children, the elderly and sick are not fasting so your kiddo is free to enjoy his foods.
• Ramadan usually means no alcohol. I say usually as I have enjoyed a glass of wine with my dinner in the Hotel but this depends a lot on the establishment. Fancy restaurants in Sidi Bou Said will probably have similar arrangements after Sunset but the assumption is rather that no alcohol will be served.
• Shops close earlier (around 4PM). Also touristic objectives have shorter opening hours – eg Carthage (Cartago) ruins are opened till 5 PM during Ramadan. Hailing a cab is also tricky after 4 PM in some areas. If you plan to return to the hotel after 4, arrange for a lump sum that the taxi waits for you to avoid any hassle.
• Shops re- open after 9 PM. Streets are very lively at this point. Especially the Medina and Sidi Bou Said are in a celebratory mood. The Tunis Medina in particular re- opens in the evening only for the second half of the Ramadan month.
• In the evening, traditional restaurants will offer one menu only, the Iftar, comprising soup, salads, meat pasties, a few stews and fruit to share with your table. It is a huge meal so if you are looking for something light, try to sample other cuisines. Also, popular restaurants in Sidi Bou Said get booked up weeks in advance for Iftar so if you have a place in mind, mail/call them for a table in advance. The fast is broken with a sip of water and a date. The dates offered at Ramadan are gorgeously moist and flavourful. You should wait till after the prayer to dig into your meal. Take a cue from the locals.

Here is my suggestion for a two day visit of Tunis during Ramadan:

Day 1: Enjoy an early breakfast at the hotel. Try the harissa ( spicy paprika paste), the olive oil ( stronger in taste compared to the Greek one) and fresh fruit juices. Ask the reception (or arrange via TripAdvisor) for a cab that would take you around the ruins today. Great, kid friendly hotels with beach access are located in La Marsa, about 15 km from Carthage so a private transport will most likely be required.

Ask the driver to take you to: Carthage Ruins on Byrsa Hill (allow about 1h for the exterior if taking a guide) the Carthage Amphitheater ( maybe 15/20 min). Follow with the Villas Romaine ( a cluster of restored Roman villas where the highlight is ‘la villa de la volière’) and finally the Antonius baths (Thermes d’Antonin). Expect to pay around 10 Dinars at each site. They are all spread around Carthage neighbourhood but not close enough to efficiently visit on food. After this whirlwind visit of antiquity vestiges, return to the hotel before 16h to grab a light lunch and enjoy the pool for a few hours. At 20h start again with a taxi ride to the Medina to have a proper Iftar dinner. You can also walk a bit around the narrow streets to digest and soak up the excitement.

Day 2: After breakfast head to downtown Tunis to admire the mosques and get a taste of the Medina by day. Visit the Bardo Museum if interested in history. It traces the history of Tunisia over several millennia and across civilisations. You can also visit to the Roman forum that hosts performances to this day, starting in June of each year. It is as impressive as Roma’s Colosseum. Return to the hotel to await the evening feast. For the second evening, head to the picturesque Sidi Bou Said, with its white houses and blue doors. It has some excellent restaurants but prices may match European ones. An Iftar dinner will cost around 90 dinars per person. I recommend the Dar Zarrouk. It has a lovely patio for guests eating outside and really tasty food.

We chose The Residence Hotel in La Marsa as our accommodation. It has a big pool for adults and a kiddy pool as well as a very small play area. It has direct beach access through a palm lined path. As it is still off season, the rates were amazing for the facilities on offer. It is also within a short walking distance from a Carrefour supermarket. A km down the road, a shinny new Four Seasons has recently opened. This one also offers Kiddy Clubs starting with 4 years.

I plan to go back to Tunisia with family and stay longer. At this time, it is a great value for money and offering the culture-beach mix that makes most holidays a success.

Happy travels!