I have been to Portugal a few times already. First, about 8 years ago, I travelled with my best friend to Porto and Lisbon. I have then spend a couple of week- ends in Lisbon with friends. And of course, the Azores in 2011.  But in the August of 2017, looking for possible destinations for a sort jaunt from Brussels, I stumbled on the coastal town of Sesimbra. It is then that Mr happened to mention he was never to Portugal. The decision was made. He received a trip to Portugal as his birthday present.

As Lisbon was my husband’s treat, I kept it for the end. Upon arrival we rented a car and drove down to Sesimbra, about one hour south of Lisbon. Potuguese colleagues recommended it for the nice, wide beach, fresh seafood and being popular with locals mostly. As we were travelling mid-August, there were bound to be people on holidays, so any tips to less travelled places were well appreciated.

Our LO was about 18 months at that point and having more than 20 flights under his belt, all went pretty smoothly. The car ride was not long but, as it was already dark when we landed, it took us a bit longer than the hour that we had planned to drive down from the airport to the coast. Sesimbra itself is a small town with many one way streets and can be quite confusing at night. We called our accommodation and they guided us to the apartment building where the flat was located.

Our hosts were a nice young couple that renovated a penthouse on the last floor of a new building. The penthouse was split into 4 bedrooms, some with en suite bathrooms. Our room had a balcony overseeing the ocean as well. They also provided a travel bed, blanket and a towel for the baby.

A view from our balcony

The best thing about our accommodation was the breakfast. Everything was freshly made every morning and they went out of their way to get us to try the local cheese and pastries. The LO was happy with yogurt and a piece of fruit. Breakfast was served on the terrace, overseeing the ocean. It was great to stay in such a small and cosy place compared to the the soulless large hotel experience. Their name is Cali Luxury Apartment and you should definitely check them out if you visit Sesimbra.

In the 3 days spent there we have tried to visit a bit of the area in the mornings and enjoyed the beach in the afternoon. The water of the sea was on the colder side ( around 18 if I remember correctly) but that didn’t stop us from splashing around a bit. Just don’t expect Mediterranean temperatures.

The first day was dedicated to Sesimbra and the Castello de Sesimbra up on a hill overlooking the bay.

Day 2, we drove through the Serra da Arrabida Natural Park that offers a scenic road and plenty of beautiful vistas of the coast called Portinho da Arrabida. We ended the trip in Setubal.

Day 3, we went West to visit Cabo Espechiel, with its unique church, a lighthouse and dinosaur footprints in a nearby location.

Every evening we enjoyed tasty and freshly prepared fish at one of the marisqueria restaurants. Our favourite was by far Taberna Isaias, a hole in the wall place where the line outside was formed before the place even opened. If you want to try it, just go in and ask for the list, put your name down and buy two beers at the counter. You can then join the queue and have your beer outside. We had to wait a bit more than one hour as the entire list system was not clear to me at the start. If you arrive early, you might be more lucky. The wait is worth it. The dorade fish is to die for. I still dream of that succulent taste. Do not expect choice of sides or salads. The fish is king in this place.

We also tried Casa Matheus one day. It was very tasty but less ‘authentic’ compared to Isaias. The prices were also up there with some European capitals. If you are looking for a nice dinner out, sitting in a small square with a good glass of wine, Casa Matheus can deliver.

On our fourth day we headed to Lisbon. On the way, I had the less inspired idea to pass through Sintra. I would avoid that if it is week-end or some kind of national holiday. We spend two hours in the car driving up and down 5 km of very narrow and congested road. The sites of Sintra are great though and they definitely worth a trip on their own. In 1995, Sintra Hills including the Monserrate Gardens were declared a UNESCO World heritage Site.

On this trip, we managed to see the Monserrate Palace and gardens. The palace grounds are reasonably easily accessible with a stroller but the gardens less so as there are small pebbles everywhere. We have walked a bit but then had to carry the LO once he got tired. I also noticed a visitor’s train leaving from in front of the cafe. You might want to use that if you have no carrier handy, are accompanies by two or more children or having accessibility problems.

Our trip back to Lisbon took some time as well but less than the drive up the Sintra hill. We went to the hotel directly and parked the car in one of the underground parkings in Central Lisbon. There is hardly any place to park in the centre so count on about 30 Euros per day if you need to park your car there. After check in, we took a stroll in the centre and walked to Placa do Commercio.

The next and final day of our trip we started with a stroll in the Alfama District. We then went to visit the Castelo de Sao Jorge. Both imply many stairs and bumpy alleys. Be prepared to lift the stroller on a few occasions if you travel with one. The area is not the most accessible but has plenty of charm and great cafes to relax once your sightseeing is done.

In the afternoon we headed to Avenida de la Libertade and enjoyed a lemonade in one of the cafes lining the square.

We finally crossed into the Chado Baixa district, the birthplace of Fado. Here we walked through the Praca Luis de Camoes and finished the tour in the Largo de Carmo, one of my favourite places to have dinner in Lisbon. It is surrounded by grand baroque houses and historical monuments.

It has become sort of a tradition for me to have dinner at the Restaurant Carmo at least once when I am in Lisbon. They have amazing cakes that our LO got to appreciate them as well. Unfortunately there was no high chair which meant we had to keep him entertained or on our lap throughout dinner. We then checked out the Elevador de Santa Justa and got back to the hotel.

Our hotel in Lisbon was perfectly located within walking distance of all the main sites. It was a trendy, design place called Tesouru da Baixa. Breakfast was tasty and there was a selection of fresh pastries. However, there was no high chair and they charged for the use of the crib. It is perfect for a couple but somewhat unprepared to accommodate small children.

Time was too short to fit in more sightseeing but there are many things to see and do in Lisbon. One fun thing to do with kids is the Oceanarium de Lisboa. I was impressed when I was there in 2009 and will take my LO once he’s is 4 or so. The Oceanarium is a bit outside Lisbon. In the same area is the Vasco da Gama Tower, a skyscraper with an observation deck.

Another thing to do with kids is take the funicular from Placa Restauradores to Barrio Alto. It takes you right up to the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, a wonderful look-out point with a shady statue-lined terrace and plenty of photo opportunities. Excellent views of the city and castle are to be had from the gardens.

I cannot wait to go back to Lisbon. I am sure there will be some more opportunities in the future.

Happy travels!